Aperitifs at sundown, quaint streets, and Italian sunshine. Sound familiar?
Nope, we’re not talking about the likes of Florence or Tuscany.
Hop across the Adriatic sea from Venice and you’ll find Trieste, a unique border town that you’ve probably never heard of – but one you’re going to want to add to your city-break hit list.
While Trieste was once a little forgotten – hidden away in the north of Italy and even described as a ‘nowhere place’ – times have changed.
The Italian town has just been named in Booking.com’s top trending destinations for UK travellers, with the website citing ‘the stunning surroundings’ and ‘the only preserved cave castle in Europe’ as reasons to visit.
Almost entirely surrounded by Slovenia, Trieste is a melting-pot of different cultures, which Lonely Planet described as being perfectly exampled in the local dialect, ‘a strange melange of Italian, Austrian-German, Croatian and Greek.’
Ever since neighbouring Slovenia’s popularity began to boom with travellers, tourism has picked up. There’s now a thriving foodie and arts scene, and the uber cool hotel chain, 25hours, is set to open in Trieste next year. Not to mention, its stunning.
‘A beautiful place both during the day and at night but it never feels crowded or overrun. Simply stunning,’ wrote one TripAdvisor reviewer, while a second described it as ‘so serene and beautiful’. TripAdvisor itself dubbed the town ‘one of Europe’s most cultured seaside getaways.’
The FT recently said the city was ‘the comeback kid’ – and as tourist taxes continue to make nearby Venice an increasingly expensive choice, there’s no better time to head to Trieste.
So, if you want to get ahead of the curve, here’s everything you need to know about Italy’s next big holiday spot.
The great news is that Trieste has an airport, which is about a 40-minute car journey outside of the city centre.
You can book a direct flight from the UK, with prices starting from just £33 return with Ryanair in December. Even in August, in the height of summer, return flights are currently just £123.
The only downside is that at the moment, the flights are only operated out of Stansted Airport. Currently, one flight a day is scheduled to depart on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays.
As you’d expect from an Italian city, Trieste has a Mediterranean climate, with warm summers and colder winters.
The best time to visit is during the summer months, from June to September, when the temperature reaches highs of 30°C in July.
It’s worth keeping in mind that the area often feels the effects of the Bora, a wind that blows from the mountains into the Gulf of Trieste – which on occasion, can get pretty gusty.
It’s said though, that the locals like the wind, because of the intense emotions it sparks – when it’s a calm day, they long for it to return.
Lapland isn’t the only place in Europe that comes alive at Christmas time.
Father Christmas actually arrives early in Trieste, on the night of December 5. In the days leading up to San Nicolò’s arrival, children write letters, as shop windows and cafes get prepped, with twinkling lights and decorations.
If you’re jetting off this month, you’ll catch the Christmas light switch-on in Trieste on November 29, where the town gathers together and joins in with the annual countdown.
And the city centre also plays host to Christmas markets in the main square, Piazza Unità d’Italia, from December 7 2024 to January 1 2025. Visitors can expect stalls selling crafts, decorations and local artisanal products. There’s also nativity scenes and live musical performances.
Travelling in the shoulder season, in May or October, when there are fewer tourists, is a good idea if you want to grab yourself a bargain hotel stay.
Booking.com prices for a 3* hotel, rated ‘very good’ or above start from around £94 per night in September (although you can get a better deal depending on last-minute offers and specific promotions) compared to £70 in May 2025.
Prices checked in November 2024 for a night’s stay for two adults in December 2024 in Trieste City Centre.
Stazione Rogers is an abandoned petrol station, which swapped serving up unleaded for aperitifs, and is now a thriving cultural centre. As well as being the perfect place for sundowners overlooking the water (with DJs and live music until 2am) there’s also a space for art exhibitions, performances and gigs.
Make sure you wander through the historic centre, full of independent shops and quaint cafes. This is also the area where you can take in some of the top cultural attractions – including the cathedral and the waterfront Piazza Unità d’Italia, which is said to be modelled on Venice’s St Mark’s – but might be even more beautiful, and is the largest square overlooking the sea in Europe.
Trieste is proud of its literary heritage – James Joyce lived here while writing Ulysses, and you’ll spot the plaques signaling his various homes (he was often evicted for refusing to pay rent) across the city. There’s a Joyce museum, dedicated to the Irish writer, and the Literature Trieste Museum is also set to open this year. Or, head to a book shop and while away a few hours reading with a coffee – San Marco is a popular spot.
For views that stretch across the sea, visit the Faro della Vittoria, a lighthouse which is open to the public (for free). Each year, the Barcolana regatta, which takes place every October, sees the waters fill up with sailing boats. Tourists should also take a trip to the must-visit fairytale castle, Miramare Castle, which sits atop a rocky cliff. One tourist on TripAdvisor called it an ‘oasis of tranquility’ while another dubbed it ‘an entire fairytale package.’
From panoramic views, to heading below ground, the Grotta Gigante is a vast underground cave about 20 minutes outside of Trieste. One of the chambers, the Grande Caverna, is 98.5m high, and 76.3 m wide. Visitors can take tours all year round.
And, if you have enough time, you can also take a day trip over to Slovenia, and visit Lake Bled, which is less than an hour’s drive away.
Don’t book a flight to Trieste expecting only to eat pizza and pasta. We know, this is Italy (and of course, you can order it here) but the influences of its surrounding nations have had a big impact on how the Trestines eat.
Buffets are a big thing here, a tradition which harks back to when the city was under Austrian rule. Think cured meats, smoked sausages and cheese. It’s said you haven’t really been to Trieste unless you’ve indulged at a buffet.
Jota is also a popular local dish, essentially a Slovenian soup made with sauerkraut, potatoes, and beans – often with added pancetta.
Seafood is also a favourite. You’re likely to spot sardine dishes on the menu, but it’s always worth asking about the catch of the day.
And of course, you can wash your meal down with a grappa – the notorious liqueur which hails from the north of Italy. If alcohol isn’t your thing, Trieste is Italy’s biggest consumer of coffee (and gets the crown of Italy’s ‘capital of coffee’) with the famous brand, Illy, hailing from the city.
But, make sure you know what you’re ordering. In Trieste, an espresso is a ‘nero’ and a cappuccino is a ‘cafelatte’. And make sure you ask for it in a glass – locals say it tastes better that way.
According to Budget My Trip, you can expect to spend about £104 a day in Trieste, on food, drink and activities.
Trattoria alla Sorgente, a seafood restaurant popular with locals, lists its price range as around £22 – £44 per person.
For that all important buffet, Buffet Da Pepi has been serving hungry customers since 1897. For one person, a mixed charcuterie platter is just €8 (£6.85).
Attractions are affordable too, with many of them free. The Miramare Castle is just €12 (£10.30).
This article was first published on April 22, 2024.
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