(L-R) Goa Sausage, Bebinca, Sorpotel – Goan dishes with Portuguese roots
Photo : iStock
When you think of gourmet European food destinations, cities like Rome, Paris, and even London were counted among the leaders for many years. But for the first time this year, Lisbon, Portugal has taken the lead and been honoured with the title of Best Culinary Destination in Europe award at the World Culinary Awards. In a ceremony held in Dubai, the capital city was awarded the title and recognised for its diverse culinary delights and high-quality offerings.
Lisbon has quietly been accumulating several world-class restaurants and currently boasts 17+ Michelin-recognised destinations that span the cuisines from local chefs highlighting Portuguese ingredients to Japanese Izakayas. Lisbon is a culturally diverse city and embraces the many palates that encapsulate its population with creativity.
India also has a place among the many stunning eateries in the city which highlight the historical links between the countries, dating back all the way to 1498 when Vasco Da Gama reached Calicut and the Portuguese inroads into India began. The most notable Portuguese cultural influence began in Goa with their arrival in 1510. The Portuguese general Albuquerque seized Goa from the Sultan of Bijapur, bringing with them new culinary ingredients such as potatoes, chillies, tomatoes, cashews, pineapples, bread, vinegar, and various meats. Goa soon earned the title ‘Goa Dourada’ or Golden Goa, reflecting its beauty and prosperity.
The Portuguese colonisation of Goa profoundly transformed its culinary landscape. Introducing novel ingredients and cooking methods, the Portuguese infused their traditional flavours into local dishes. A hallmark of this fusion is the widespread use of vinegar, a rarity in other Indian cuisines. Before Portuguese influence, the Goans relied on flatbreads like rotis and chappatis. However, the arrival of Pao, a Portuguese-style bread, reshaped Goan dining habits. This European import quickly became a staple, particularly among Goan Christians, reshaping the region’s gastronomic identity and demonstrating the lasting impact of colonial cuisine on local food culture.
Though now world-famous as an Indian dish, the roots of Vindaloo are very much Portuguese.
It came from “Carne de vinha d’alhos,” and was touched with a bit of the Goan palate. While often misrepresented as a simple spicy curry, authentic Vindaloo combines meat with wine vinegar and garlic. Goan versions incorporate local spices like cinnamon, cloves, and tamarind.
The go-to weekend feast slow-cooked over many days was introduced by Portuguese and is originally from African cuisine. Initially using innards, offal, and blood with wine vinegar, it was adapted in Goa using toddy vinegar. Modern versions often omit blood and offal but retain vinegar for flavour and preservation. Traditionally prepared days in advance, Sorpotel may include unique ingredients like coconut toddy vinegar and Feni liquor.
Goa Sausage is one of the most iconic parts of the state’s cuisine and a popular choice for tourists to bring home as well. It was initially inspired by Portuguese Chorizo, comibing Indian spices with the original sausage recipe. Making Chouricos is a family affair, involving mixing, casing, and drying the meat. Poee, derived from Portuguese “Pão,” uses toddy for fermentation. This combo is a popular Goan street food, with locals having their preferred Choris vendors.
The name Recheado itself is Portugues, and means “stuffed”. In the Goan context it’s a fiery red paste used primarily for fish dishes. Typically, mackerel or pomfret is stuffed with a spice mix including Kashmiri chillies, cumin, and vinegar, then shallow-fried. Originating as a preservation method in the 16th century due to lack of refrigeration, Recheado has become a beloved Goan dish.
The GI-Tagged dessert Bebinca is a layered cake thought to be created by a nun named Bebiana using leftover egg yolks. Originally it had seven layers representing Lisbon’s seven hills, but modern versions have up to 16 layers with added spices. Traditionally baked in a clay pot (Tizel) with coconut shells for heat, Bebinca takes 8-12 hours to prepare. It’s considered a symbol of culinary prowess in Goan households.